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“Weak Hair Shafts, Split Ends and Breakage…Oh My!” by Trichologist, Dr. Kari Williams

I often hear women complaining that their hair is not growing. Let me put these fears at ease by lovingly confirming – As long as you are living and breathing, your hair is growing. If you genuinely feel like you are seeing no growth in your hair, the length of your hair has remained the same for years AND you are following every hair regimen you can find on YouTube, research on Google and concoct yourself; then I have the answer to your problem.

Your hair IS growing, but there is something happening to the ends of your hair that is causing it to break. Consequently, you are not retaining length. There are a number of culprits that could be responsible for the breakage you are experiencing, so lets explore a couple of them.

Hot combing the hair can cause various kinds of damage to the hair. Hot combs can get as hot as 400 degrees and when used improperly, can significantly weaken the hair shaft. It is a misconception that only chemical relaxers can permanently straighten the hair. I am sure that some of you reading this article have experienced permanent straight ends after prolonged use of the hot comb. This is because the heat from the comb can completely denature the proteins in your hair shaft like a chemical relaxer.  More importantly, there are water molecules in each hair shaft. If the comb is too hot when it passes through the hair, the water in each hair strand will expand, turn into steam, rise through the cortex of the hair and break through the protective cuticle. When this happens holes are left in the cuticle causing the hair shaft to become very weak and making it susceptible to breakage. To avoid this type of damage to your hair shaft with the use of a hot comb:

  • Stop using the hot comb!
  • If you must use the hot comb, insist on a professional performing the service for you.
  • Do not use the hot comb more than once a week
  • Make sure the hot comb is used on CLEAN, dry hair
  • Excessive heat or pressure should never be used when using a hot comb

*Important note: Some blow dryers can cause this type of heat damage when the hair is blow dryed at high temperatures. Ever see those little white specks located towards the end of your hair shaft? Well, your cuticle has erupted, exposing your cortex, just like someone who has improperly used a hot comb.

 

Weak hair shafts will develop split ends. Split ends can be repaired temporarily but to get rid of them permanently they must be cut off.  When they are not cut off the split ends will tangle with healthy hair, causing more tangling, which will lead to more breakage and more split ends. Women who wear their hair naturally (heat-free and chemical free) can still develop split ends.

Oftentimes they are caused because the hair is excessively dry from lack of properly lubricating the ends. When this dry hair is manipulated in styling, these dry ends will break and cause split-ends. The over-use of leave in conditioners is the culprit of many people who suffer with dry hair as well. Conditioners have protein and too much protein on the hair will cause hair to become dry and brittle. Make sure you are using a daily moisturizer on the hair, balanced with a lubricant (oil). This will protect your natural curls from dryness.

So, if you feel like your hair is not growing, make sure you check your hair routine and the products you are using.

 If you like what you read here, make sure you attend my upcoming seminar in LA. To get more detailed information visit: http://allthingsnatural.eventbrite.com

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Coco Curls Moisturizing Styling Cream Review

Ingredients: Aloe Vera Juice, Shea Butter, Jojoba Oil, Coconut Oil, Cetearyl Olivate and Sorbitan Olivate, Hydroxypropyl trimonium Honey, Lactobacillus Ferment, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil (and) Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract,  Dehydroxanthan Gum, Fragrance Oils

How I Used It: I cleansed and conditioned my hair, and then used the Coco Curls Moisturizing Styling Cream to twist my hair in 7 sections. I let my hair dry overnight and then separated the twists the following day.

(Hair after unraveling the 7 twists)

 (Hair after separating and fluffing further)

My Thoughts: The Coco Curls styling cream certainly isn’t lacking in the creamy department as shea butter is one of the main ingredients. I found that the cream distributed well in my wet hair and didn’t leave behind any residue. As far as a scent, it’s extremely light, so for those of you who prefer unscented styling products…you wouldn’t have a problem with this one. When I took my twists out, I noticed that my hair didn’t feel weighed down by the product at all. It gave me a light hold, which was perfect for the fluffy twist-out I decided to style. When I styled my hair in a puff later on in the week, I found that this product also worked well in keeping my hair moisturized and giving it a nice, natural sheen. If you’re interested in learning more about Coco Curls, visit their FB Page and let them know that Natural Chica sent you! : )

 Disclaimer: I was given this product free of charge by Coco Curls to review with no obligation for a positive review. No monetary compensation was received for sharing this review.

INFORMATION ABOUT THE COMPANY

Coco Curls is a natural hair care company founded and created by Jeannell Darden in 2008. We are a privately owned natural hair care company, based in Atlanta, GA that specializes in creating and developing products that soothe and moisturize hair while retaining spirally springy curls. We believe in nurturing the hair God gave us by offering affordable products that work; thus helping women have Sexier Curls, Naturally!

Coco Curls can be purchased at www.cococurls.com! Please follow us on twitter @Coco_Curls and like us on Facebook.com/Coco Curls.

 

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:: INTERNATIONAL NATURALISTA :: Carolina, living in the Dominican Republic!

As many of you know, the natural hair community has been growing by leaps and bounds! I truly enjoy being able to participate in an online community sharing natural hair information that extends beyond the borders of the United States. Each individual’s natural hair journey is unique and I thought it would be great to share the stories of some wonderful Natural Chica readers that live abroad! Be sure to check back frequently for stories from all corners of the world. Embracing natural hair is a WORLDWIDE movement : ) [If you are interested in participating in this feature, please send an email to mae@naturalchica.com, SUBJECT: International Naturalista]

Meet Carolina aka “Miss Rizos”

Where do you live? What’s your background?

I live in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic. I was born here and when I turned 4 I moved to Boston and spent most of my time there. After I graduated college, I decided to come back to the DR for two months, which turned into 2.5 years and counting.

Both of my parents were born in the DR, but I have African, French, and Spanish lineage. I consider myself a Black woman, an Afro-Latina, but most importantly a global citizen.

What’s your natural hair story?

During my college years I tried going natural many times and finally after 6 months of no relaxers I decided that going natural wasn’t for me and that I would wait until I turned 30 and do a BC then. About 6 months into my stay here in the Dominican Republic I felt like something was missing, like I wasn’t fully me with the relaxed hair. I was also really curious about what my natural hair looked like since I was relaxing it for over 15 years and didn’t remember. Unlike the other times I transitioned, I decided to cut it really short, the shortest I had ever cut it. This cut signified commitment.

I only transitioned for about 2 months before getting a BC. It was as terrifying as it was liberating. I remember feeling chic one minute and ugly the next. The following months involved lots of questioning and lots of growing for me. I kept feeling boyish, ugly, inferior and simply unattractive. Feeling these things especially here in the Dominican Republic, a place where people make sure to remind you that you natural hair is everything but beautiful, was so necessary. Those emotions allowed me to deconstruct their origins and to set my SELF FREE.

It’s been almost two years and I love my hair, but most importantly I love all of me.

What’s the natural hair scene like where you live? Are there natural hair events in your area? Do you see many others with natural hair?

Things are definitely changing here, but it is very difficult to be a natural in the DR. People call you all sorts of hurtful names in the streets and worst of all, your family and friends think you are either going crazy, depressed, sick or going through a phase. I’ve been told my strangers that they will pay for me to get a relaxer, that I looked like I got electrocuted, that I have a terrible barber, that I had forgotten my comb at home and the list goes on and on. Dealing with people’s opinions about my hair has actually been the most difficult part about being natural. It is inevitable to at times internalize all of these negatives ideas about your hair and feel like you are the outcast or the one that is wrong. These feeling don’t really occupy my mind for too long because I have learned, with time, to deal with them. Most women however, actually believe it and many times go back to the relaxers because of societal pressures.

In this past year things have changed so much. There are now several natural hair bloggers in the country and outside who are writing in Spanish, occasional natural hair meet-ups, natural hair products, and I would go as far as saying that there is now a natural hair community that is growing. I see more and more women going natural each day.

What’s your natural hair regimen? What are some of your favorite products to use? Do you find it difficult to purchase products that work well for your hair where you live/online?

One of my New Years Curlsolution is finding a regimen that works for me. I am always trying to find the best product or style and find myself constantly changing my routine. I have to admit that the PJ in me is definitely enjoying it. Some of my favorite products are SheaMoisture’s shampoo (the yellow bottle), Kinky-Curly Knot Today, and Jane Carter Solution’s Nourish and Shine. I just started using Camille Rose Aloe Whipped Hair Gel and absolutely love it! I am also re-experimenting with some of Carol’s Daughter products.

I am a natural hair product junkie for sure. I tend to go for the most natural products because they actually work better on my hair. I tend to stay away from products that cause build-up, I hate having a dirty itchy scalp!

I wash twice a week, once with a sulfate free shampoo and once with either a cleansing cream or a conditioner. I do a wash and go once or twice a month and the rest of the time I either do twist-outs, flat-twists (I am still working on perfecting them), and bantu-knot outs. I oil and massage my scalp every other night and use natural oils and butters to seal. My favorite leave-in/conditioner right now is the Tea Tree Tingle from Trader Joes, and my favorite oil is almond oil.

At first it was impossible to find products here, so I would always bring tons of it with me from the US or I would ask my friends to bring it with them when they visited. Now I actually have a little store where I carry most of the products I use. There are also other people in the country who are importing and making their own natural hair products.

What are some of your favorite things to do where you live?

THE BEACH!!  I live in an island that is surrounded by beautiful beaches and I get to escape to some of them on the weekends. My favorite part of the DR is this beach town called Las Terrenas of Samana. My favorite beach is there, Playa Bonita, heaven on earth, paradise. I love to eat fresh sugar cane, mangos, avocados, fish, coconut water, passion fruit, and did I mention mangos! Finally, I love dancing Merengue and I am an excellent Bachata dancer if I may say so!

Two young ladies from the Dominican Republic (DR) right before their dance performance wearing traditional clothes from the DR

Do you have anything else you’d like to share with our Natural Chica readers?

It’s amazing how Black women from all around the world have so much in common. I think we would be surprised to know that regardless of our nationality, women of color share so many of the same struggles and triumphs. I feel like our natural hair can be an awesome opportunity to start the conversation of the things that connect us to one another.

Any contact info where our readers can contact you: blog, twitter, tumblr, etc?

Sure!

On my blog: missrizos.com (Spanish)

On Facebook: Miss Rizos

On Twitter: miss_rizos

On youtube: lamissrizos

I am also a guest blogger on NewLatina.net (in English) and you’ll find me as a co-host at Nappturalite Radio every so often!

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:: GIVEAWAY :: 2 Gold Tickets to “All Things Natural Hair Care Seminar”

The winner has been randomly selected (Tiffany A.) and emailed. Thanks to all who participated in this contest!

CLICK HERE TO PURCHASE TICKETS

Our resident trichologist, Dr. Kari Willams (Mahogany Hair Revolution) and cosmetic chemist,  Nicole Harmon (Hair Liberty) have partnered to bring the Los Angeles area with a seminar full of healthy hair care information!

They have also donated 2 GOLD tickets to their event, that one lucky Natural Chica reader will have a chance to win!

Follow the instructions below to enter

Must be 18 yrs of age or older OR have the permission of your guardian to enter

Must be able to attend the event on February 18, 2012 in Los Angeles, CA

Continue reading

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Is It Dandruff?? by Trichologist, Dr. Kari Williams

Trichologist, Dr. Kari Williams is back with us again, dishing about hair & scalp health issues!

Be sure to come back every other Friday to see special features from Dr. Kari.

Scalp itch and flaking is a common occurrence in most people. The biggest problem is the misdiagnosis that occurs when these symptoms show up. The majority of people immediately assume that these symptoms mean dandruff, or even worse a dry scalp. I caution against running to these simple explanations of the discomfort in your scalp because when this happens, the wrong treatments are used with hopes of relief. How many of you have increased how much grease you use on your scalp when it itches or flakes? Yes, I see you nodding your head saying, “That’s me.” And how many more of you grab a heavily marketed anti-dandruff solution like Head and Shoulders or Sulfur 8? Lets grasp an understanding of what these symptoms mean and why it is important to diagnosis your scalp discomfort properly.

If you have an itchy or flaky scalp, it is a result from a scalp condition. Three of the most common causes  are contact dermatitis, seborrheic dermatitis and folliculitis.

Contact Dermatitis is the result of irritation or an allergic reaction to something that has come into contact with the scalp. Common causes are the chemical agents that are found in many shampoos, conditioners and other hair products. These chemicals can irritate the scalp and tend to make it overly dry and itchy. Sometimes contact dermatitis can also be a result from other irritants in the environment or systemic causes such as the food that you eat or stress.

Folliculitis is an infection of the hair follicle and Staphylococcus aureus or other bacteria are often the culprits. Severe infections of the follicle can cause permanent hair loss and scarring of the scalp. The infection usually appears as small, white-headed pimples around one or more hair follicles.

Seborrheic dermatitis is characterized by excessive flaking, particularly around the hairline. This particular scalp disorder is oftentimes mistaken as severe dandruff. The flakes in this condition are adhered to the scalp and may be have a yellowish tint, unlike dandruff which appears as powdery flakes that sit on the hair. Individuals suffering from this scalp condition may also experience itching and flaking on the forehead and behind the ears.

It is imperative that you receive proper diagnosis of your scalp condition the moment you experience any symptoms. If your scalp condition is misdiagnosed it can become worse and possibly result in hair loss. Remember to check your symptoms. There are over the counter solutions that can offer relief, but depending on the severity of your symptoms you may need a prescription from a medical doctor. If you are located in the Los Angeles area and would like more information on how to recognize and treat common scalp disorders make sure you attend my upcoming educational seminar “All Things Natural.” For more information visit: http://allthingsnatural.eventbrite.com .

Special Note: Stay tuned to the site as one lucky Natural Chica reader will soon have the chance to win a ticket to attend Dr. Kari’s educational seminar! *Mae*

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