“Weak Hair Shafts, Split Ends and Breakage…Oh My!” by Trichologist, Dr. Kari Williams

I often hear women complaining that their hair is not growing. Let me put these fears at ease by lovingly confirming - As long as you are living and breathing, your hair is growing. If you genuinely feel like you are seeing no growth in your hair, the length of your hair has remained the same for years AND you are following every hair regimen you can find on YouTube, research on Google and concoct yourself; then I have the answer to your problem.Your hair IS growing, but there is something happening to the ends of your hair that is causing it to break. Consequently, you are not retaining length. There are a number of culprits that could be responsible for the breakage you are experiencing, so lets explore a couple of them.Hot combing the hair can cause various kinds of damage to the hair. Hot combs can get as hot as 400 degrees and when used improperly, can significantly weaken the hair shaft. It is a misconception that only chemical relaxers can permanently straighten the hair. I am sure that some of you reading this article have experienced permanent straight ends after prolonged use of the hot comb. This is because the heat from the comb can completely denature the proteins in your hair shaft like a chemical relaxer.  More importantly, there are water molecules in each hair shaft. If the comb is too hot when it passes through the hair, the water in each hair strand will expand, turn into steam, rise through the cortex of the hair and break through the protective cuticle. When this happens holes are left in the cuticle causing the hair shaft to become very weak and making it susceptible to breakage. To avoid this type of damage to your hair shaft with the use of a hot comb:
  • Stop using the hot comb!
  • If you must use the hot comb, insist on a professional performing the service for you.
  • Do not use the hot comb more than once a week
  • Make sure the hot comb is used on CLEAN, dry hair
  • Excessive heat or pressure should never be used when using a hot comb
*Important note: Some blow dryers can cause this type of heat damage when the hair is blow dryed at high temperatures. Ever see those little white specks located towards the end of your hair shaft? Well, your cuticle has erupted, exposing your cortex, just like someone who has improperly used a hot comb.Weak hair shafts will develop split ends. Split ends can be repaired temporarily but to get rid of them permanently they must be cut off.  When they are not cut off the split ends will tangle with healthy hair, causing more tangling, which will lead to more breakage and more split ends. Women who wear their hair naturally (heat-free and chemical free) can still develop split ends.Oftentimes they are caused because the hair is excessively dry from lack of properly lubricating the ends. When this dry hair is manipulated in styling, these dry ends will break and cause split-ends. The over-use of leave in conditioners is the culprit of many people who suffer with dry hair as well. Conditioners have protein and too much protein on the hair will cause hair to become dry and brittle. Make sure you are using a daily moisturizer on the hair, balanced with a lubricant (oil). This will protect your natural curls from dryness.So, if you feel like your hair is not growing, make sure you check your hair routine and the products you are using. If you like what you read here, make sure you attend my upcoming seminar in LA. To get more detailed information visit: http://allthingsnatural.eventbrite.com
Tags: Dr. Kari Williams, hair breakage, heat damage, my hair isn't growing, split ends, trichologist, trichology

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  1. I am questioning a hair cutting technique that seems to be damaging my hair. The stylist cuts my hair then she holds up my ends and cuts straight down into them. It not only feels like she has cut weight out of my hair but this technique seems to be damaging my ends. They appear frayed. Not only that but I can no longer roll my hair without having all of these ” wispy” pieces going in different directions making it impossible for my hair to hold a curl. Are you familiar with this technique? If so what’s the point? I just spent months letting my hair grow and allowed my stylist to cut 2 inches off which is more like 6. Because I want to see where my ends are health wise. Now I am back to square one. I can’t have it cut again right now to correct my ends or my hair will be above my shoulders and I will be more devastated.

  2. Pingback: Hair Types | Naturalbella

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